Article courtesy of Midwest Living
By Stacy Conde
Head north from Traverse City for a weekend escape to Petoskey, Michigan—a lakeside town with farm-fresh dining and activities for all seasons.
After dinner, the kids are eager to meet their friends down at the rec, while the adults make their way to the beach, travel mugs in hand. (Don’t be fooled, there’s a nice, crisp Michigan white wine in there.) It’s sunset hour in Petoskey—specifically in the cottage community of Bay View, where my family and generations of families before us have spent our summer vacations. When the skies are clear, a call for sunset viewing goes out. Friends and neighbors gather to ooh and ahh over that glowing orange sherbet ball as it sinks into Little Traverse Bay.
In the Odawa language, Petoskey (Bii-daa-si-ga) means “the rising sun” or “sunbeams of promise.” And indeed, this small Michigan town captures the quintessential Up North experience with its mix of nature, history, and culture. It's a place where sunsets draw applause; where all ages enjoy hunting for the namesake Petoskey stones, with coral impressions that resemble a rising sun; where a walkable downtown lined with Victorian buildings offers year-round appeal; and where legendary author Ernest Hemingway spent his boyhood summers.
Here’s how to spend a weekend in Petoskey.
Things to Do
Outdoor Recreation
With Little Traverse Bay and acres of wooded trails just steps away, you’ll have your pick of land and water activities. Meander through 3 miles of well-marked trails in Bay View Woods. Walk, bike, or cross-country ski along Bear River at the Bear River Valley Recreation Area. If you’re more of a daredevil, the quarter-mile Bear River whitewater course—the only one of its kind in the Lower Peninsula—will get your adrenaline flowing.
Bikers will want to pedal a portion of the 26-mile Little Traverse Wheelway along the bay; it stretches from Charlevoix to Harbor Springs. In milder months, choose your adventure on the water: paddleboard, sail, or swim in crystal-clear, blue water. In winter, skiing at Nub’s Nob or Boyne Mountain is less than 30 minutes away. Bahnhof Sport offers both summer and winter equipment rentals.
Family Fun
Take a 25-minute drive outside of town for a walk on the world’s longest timber-towered suspension bridge, SkyBridge Michigan. It’s especially appealing for leaf-peeping in autumn, but the 1,200-foot-long bridge above Boyne Valley is open year-round (and twinkles with more than 150,000 lights at the holidays).
Back in Petoskey, both kids and parents will love the area's fudge tradition. Locals affectionately refer to tourists as “fudgies,” a nod to the beloved local confection. Although fudge wasn’t invented in Michigan, the Murdick family turned it into an attraction when they began demonstrating the craft at their first candy store on Mackinac Island in 1887. The tradition carries on today at their Petoskey location and has been adopted by other fudge makers. Both Murdick’s and Kilwins make fresh fudge daily. Watch as a gooey mass of liquid fudge is worked into solid blocks on a cool marble slab. As kids, we’d stand pressed against the glass—eyes wide and mouths watering—hoping that the candy maker might offer us a sample. They often did!
Last, you can’t visit Petoskey without having a go at stone hunting. Petoskey stones are actually prehistoric coral fossils, identified by a six-sided ray pattern most visible when the stone is wet. The best time to find them is in spring, after the ice thaws. Petoskey State Park is a great place for both novice and experienced rock hunters.
Shop Local
The brick streets of downtown Petoskey’s Gaslight District are lined with charming 19th-century buildings and old-fashioned street lamps. Peruse an expertly curated mix of vintage and new home decor in a former 1800s railway depot at August Home, just off Pennsylvania Park. Symon's General Store sells Michigan-made candy and gifts, while Threads Petoskey and Apres by Threads specialize in women's clothing.
It’s hard to walk out of American Spoon with just one jar of locally made preserves. The company, owned and operated by the Marshall-Rashid family since 1982, has its preserving kitchen just outside Petoskey. Small-batch jams, salsas, condiments, and sauces are made with produce sourced from Michigan farmers. My family’s favorites are the Sour Cherry Spoon Fruit (a chunky fruit jam sweetened with fruit juice concentrate) and the Heirloom Blueberry Preserves, which make a tasty cocktail we call the Jam Jar. (Combine your choice of spirit, 2 tablespoons of preserves, lemon juice, and a splash of Prosecco.)
On your way to Bay Harbor, visit Sturgeon River Pottery for a one-stop-shop of locally made pottery and Petoskey stones.
Just a few miles from downtown Petoskey, explore farms that grow the herbs, fruit and vegetables that supply local restaurants and markets. Coveyou Scenic Farm Market began as a farmstead in 1874. Five generations of the Coveyou family have worked this beautiful property overlooking rolling hills and Walloon Lake. The farm’s refurbished centennial barn is home to an expansive artisan market featuring more than 130 Michigan businesses and brands. Organic fruits and vegetables, meat and fish, milk, cheese, and eggs are all sourced from Coveyou or nearby farms.
Bear Creek Organic Farm is Petoskey’s first 100 percent USDA-certified organic farm. Owners Anne and Brian Bates keep things hyper-local by selling more than 90 percent of their products within a 12-mile radius. Their microgreens, raw honey, and black garlic products (including the black garlic itself!) are must-haves. An on-site food truck serves farm-fresh soups, salads, sandwiches, and pasties.
Arts and Culture
Ernest Hemingway spent the first 22 years of his life at his family’s summer cottage on Walloon Lake, a 15-minute drive from Petoskey. Retrace his footsteps with a self-guided tour of some of his old haunts. Start with the statue of a young Ernest in Pennsylvania Park, then walk across the street to City Park Grill, known as The Annex in Hemingway’s time, and sit at the bar where he contemplated characters for some of his novels. Across the park at the Perry Hotel, imagine yourself in the year 1916, when rooms were 75 cents a night; Hemingway stayed at the Perry many times before continuing on to the cottage on Walloon Lake. For a larger history lesson, end your walk-about at the Little Traverse History Museum.
Get a different perspective on the area’s history and culture on a walking tour through the National Historic Landmark community of Bay View. Founded in 1875 by Michigan Methodists as a camp “for scientific and intellectual culture, and for the promotion of the Christian religion and morality,” Bay View also incorporates the tenets of the non-denominational Chautauqua Movement, which focuses on education, recreation, cultural enrichment, and public affairs. More than 400 privately owned Victorian-era cottages, 30 public buildings, and two inns are situated on 337 acres overlooking Little Traverse Bay. Membership is required to participate in community-exclusive programming, but many events are open to the public. Bay View’s summer programming includes concerts, theatrical productions, lectures, and workshops.
Where to Eat and Drink
If you have just one dinner in Petoskey, it has to be at Chandler’s, tucked behind Symons General Store in Petoskey’s Gaslight District. (You might miss it if you don’t know the way.) Dine in a candlelit, intimate space with an extensive wine list, classic cocktails, and seasonal menu featuring local ingredients. When the family is away and I’m dining solo, a seasonal salad (asparagus in summer or poached pear in autumn) with a spicy tuna roll on the side and a glass of wine from their well-stocked cellar next door makes me feel like the lake-life version of a chic Parisian ingénue.
For “brunch, lunch, pizzas, and booze,” hit Sam’s Graces Cafe. From-scratch comfort food and strong coffee star here, as do house-made English muffins for breakfast plates. Stop in for a Hemingway Daiquiri to break up your Hemingway walking tour.
Located inside the historic Terrace Inn within the Bay View community, 1911 Restaurant and its new dining space Josephine’s offer upscale menus created by executive chef Randy Hopkins. Choosing my entree tends to be a game-time decision thanks to the lineup of tempting options. I start with good intentions—ready to try one of the new seasonal dishes—but in the end, the Parmesan-crusted planked whitefish with duchess potatoes wins out every time.
Recent newcomer Leto’s Osteria is the Italian restaurant that Petoskey has been missing. Mind-blowingly good small plates of buckwheat-fried cauliflower and salt-roasted beets accompany house-made pasta dishes with ingredients like pistachio chili crisp and sun-dried pepper butter. Their strawberry negroni sour is dangerous. It’s a challenge to have just one.
Sample a flight or pick up a growler from Elder Piper Beer and Cider. You’ll be spoiled for choice with a 24-tap menu of cider and brews, including a non-alcoholic fresh cider pressed on site with apples from King Orchards in Central Lake.
The Petoskey Wine Region includes 15 wineries along Little Traverse Bay and the Lake Michigan coast; enjoy tasting rooms and vineyard views.
Where to Stay
Just outside Petoskey, the Inn at Bay Harbor is one of the only lakeside hotels in the area with full resort amenities, including an on-site spa, beach access, pool, golf, and multiple dining options. In summer, rent an e-bike or book a cruise on a luxury yacht. In winter, borrow snowshoes and trek around nearby nature preserves.
Unless you own or rent a cottage, the only way to stay within the community of Bay View is to book a room at the 38-room Terrace Inn, which has hosted visitors for more than 100 years. While the property has been meticulously updated, it maintains its historical charm. Take your coffee on the porch and watch summer cottagers go about their day.
For a historical stay in town, the 1899 Perry Hotel sits on a bluff overlooking the bay and is within walking distance to shops and restaurants. If you prefer direct beach access and sports activities, Bay View Inn, just outside of the Bay View community, offers paddleboards, sailing, and complimentary bikes.
Mark Your Calendar
In July, the annual Petoskey Antiques Show hosts more than 100 vendors from across the country at the Emmet County Fairgrounds, while Art in the Park invites artists of all stripes to showcase their work in Pennsylvania Park.
In February, downtown Petoskey rolls out Winter Wonderland Weekend, with live ice-carving, Grandpa Shorter’s Chili Trail (sample free tastings from local chefs and vote for your favorites), and Clydesdale-drawn wagon rides. Stroll the downtown Social District with to-go “winter warmer” seasonal drink specials from select local bars and restaurants.
Explore More
Petoskey is the perfect home base for day trips. Mackinac Island is less than two hours away by car and a quick ferry ride. Set your GPS for Mackinaw City and head north on US-31. Stop in Alanson and fill up your water bottles at the Crooked River Spring public fountain; the water is delicious, fresh, and ice-cold.
Michigan's famed 20-mile Tunnel of Trees, especially scenic in fall, starts just north of Petoskey.
Connect